Las Posadas

Las Posadas is a lovely Christmas tradition in Mexico. For nine days, from December 16-24, communities hold posadas, traditional religious plays, that commemorate Mary and Joseph’s search for a place to stay in Bethlehem before Jesus was born.

Neto is invited to multiple posadas every year. There will be posadas in his neighborhood and one at Los Colores, the Catholic meeting he attends every Wednesday night. Posadas are usually held after dark. Guests play the part of pilgrims, carrying candles to help them light their way as they go from house to house, knocking on doors asking for shelter.

One year Neto and I were in Bucerias, a small town north of Puerto Vallarta, for Christmas. We attended a posada at Los Arroyos Verdes, a beautiful ecological retreat located in a tropical rainforest on the outskirts of town. Children from the local orphanage played the main parts ~ Mary and Joseph, angels and shepherds. Mary was blind and sat on a real donkey. Those of us in the audience were divided in two parts ~ the innkeepers and the pilgrims.

There is a song that is sung at every posada, back and forth between the innkeepers and the pilgrims. The ceremony begins as Mary, Joseph and the pilgrims ask for lodging, or “posada.” The innkeepers reject the pilgrims and tell them to go away. Finally, after listening to the pleas of the pilgrims multiple times, the innkeepers sing, “Wait! It is you, Joseph, and your wife, Mary! Please come in. I did not recognize you!”

To this, the pilgrims sing, “God will repay you for your charity and fill you with blessings in heaven.” 

And then the party begins! There is a special piñata for the children ~ a seven-pointed star that represents the seven-deadly sins. Children whack away at the piñata with a stick until it is broken, representing God’s victory over the devil. Candy and trinkets fall on the ground and the children run to gather up as much as they can, scooping their loot into their outstretched hands and pants pockets.

Of course, there is plenty of food and drink. At our party, the food was pot luck. Typical Mexican foods are tamales, pozole and buñuelos, deep fried dough drizzled in syrup and rolled in cinnamon sugar. Drinks include Mexican hot chocolate, atole (a hot drink made from corn flour),  beer and shots of tequila. Neighbors often hire a band and the party lasts until early morning when it is finally time to go home.

I love the symbolism of La Posada. At Christmas, a time for candles to light our way during these dark winter nights, I am reminded of these words from the song, Light One Candle by Peter Yarrow:

“Light one candle for the strength that we need to never become our own foe.

And light one candle for those who are suffering. Pain we learned so long ago.

Light one candle for all we believe in. That anger not tear us apart.

And light one candle to find us together with peace as the song in our heart.”

¡Feliz Navidad!

Ernesto, Huesos and the Police

When I lived in Mazatlan and Ernesto was my handyman, he often asked his friend, Huesos, to help him on jobs that required a strong back and an extra set of hands. Huesos means “bones” in Spanish. That’s his nickname because, although he is strong, he is exceptionally skinny.

Huesos comes from a wealthy family. His father paid for him to go to private schools in Mazatlán and to dental school in the U.S. But Huesos wasn’t cut out to be a dentist. He would have preferred to be a veterinarian. Or a gardener. Or anything other than a dentist.

The whole time I knew him, Huesos lived with an odd assortment of wild dogs in a homemade shelter on the hill behind my house. When he needed money, he rang my doorbell to see if I had work for him. I often hired him to sweep the courtyard and Neto looked for him whenever he needed a helper who was willing and good-natured. Huesos was both.

One day Neto and Huesos were nearly arrested taking chunks of concrete to the dump. It happened at the end of a long day, after they loaded more than a ton of concrete pieces into the back of Neto’s brother’s pickup truck. Back and forth they went, from my house to the dump, carrying load after load of heavy concrete.

On the last trip to the dump, Neto spotted a man who had a huge hole in his front yard. He stopped the truck and made a deal with the man. Instead of going all the way to the dump, Neto would give him the broken pieces of concrete to fill the hole and the man would be happy.

They started to unload concrete into the hole when the police arrived. The policeman told Neto that someone made an “environmental complaint” against him for dumping concrete. The policeman was going to take both Neto and Huesos to jail and impound the truck. Neto was not eager to go to jail and he was especially unhappy about the truck, since it wasn’t his.

Neto told the policeman he had 100 pesos (about $10.00 U.S. at the time) in his pocket and asked if he could just pay the fine right there. The policeman said that since there were two policemen on duty, the fine would be 200 pesos. If the workers didn’t have the money, they would have to go to jail.

Neto then remembered that he did, indeed, have 200 pesos in his pocket. So he paid the policeman, dumped the concrete in the man’s front yard and everyone was happy.

Sometimes it is Life’s unexpected moments of good fortune that lead to the most happiness.

Our Lady of Guadalupe

I’ve always believed that Mexican prayers have super powers ~ especially prayers to Our Lady of Guadalupe. Mexican prayers need to be strong because Mexican luck is basically so bad. 

The festival of Our Lady of Guadalupe, December 12, is the most important religious holiday in Mexico. It is particularly important in rural areas where people have a special love of La Virgin. 

I witnessed the Our Lady of Guadalupe festival twice. Ernesto and I were in Puerto Vallarta in 2013 as thousands of peasants from the small towns and ranches marched for days to arrive at the Basilica in time for Mass. There were traditional Aztec dancers mixed with mariachi bands. Parents and grandparents carried tired children in their arms. People slept in fields and bought food along the way. By the time they arrived, they were exhausted but ecstatic. It was a Mexican celebration of hope and joy, like nothing I’ve ever seen before or since.

I was also with Ernesto in the village of Hacienda del Tamarindo in 2010 for the days leading up to the festival. Neto’s mother was born in La Hacienda and many of his relatives still live there. Those who live in the United States return every year for the feast day. We arrived on Neto’s birthday, December 5. The novena, nine days of prayer said  at the same time every day, began the day before, on December 4. At 4:30, the morning of December 6, we heard the loud boom of portable cannons, telling everyone to wake up and meet at the local church to walk through the streets and pray the rosary together before going to Mass at 5:30. The entire town was there. 

I loved meeting Neto’s family, especially his uncles Gero and Ramon, and his Aunt Valvina. Always a gentleman, Uncle Gero jumped up when I entered the room. Although he was almost completely blind, Gero held my hand as we circled the room and he introduced me to everyone there. Uncle Ramon invited us to come to his house to see an injured baby deer he rescued while he was out riding his horse. Ramon showed us how he carried the deer home in his arms. He explained that he would feed it with a bottle until it was old enough to take back to the woods where it belonged. Aunt Valvina proudly showed me her home. I saw the sewing room where she makes all her own quilts, curtains and tablecloths. I was fascinated as she demonstrated the barracho room ~ a special bedroom off the courtyard filled with bunks for people who are too drunk to be allowed into the house. The barrachos sleep together, away from rest of the family, until they stumble into the kitchen the next morning looking for fresh rolls and hot coffee.

Like most homes in rural Mexico, Valvina and Gero’s home has no heat and no hot water. It was my first experience taking a shower using only a bucket a cold water. 

Neto’s family is wonderful  to be around. Not only are they breathtakingly handsome, they are charming and full of joy. They tell the same stories and laugh every time they hear them again. When it was time to leave, Neto’s cousins wished us a safe trip home. They told Neto “We like Lynda a lot. How can we get you to bring her back here again.” Neto answered, “Hot water would help!”

Thanksgiving ~ 2019

This week I learned that I cannot post anything on this blog that will eventually be part of my book, A Citizen of the World. Oops!! It has to do with publishing rights, something I know nothing about. Here goes another trek up the learning curve. Where are the sherpas when I need them?

So I need to broaden the scope of this blog. I will still tell you stories about Ernesto’s life and my adventures living in Mexico, but I will also include entries about whatever is on my mind for the current week.

This being Thanksgiving weekend, I’m especially thankful for some of the whacky and wonderful things that make me laugh in this season of cold, dark days. 

I’m thankful for the Canadian geese that have overtaken Denver by the thousands. I know they poop everywhere. That’s not cool. But they also make me laugh out loud. They stroll through the parks. They stop traffic as they cross the street. They sit down on the golf courses causing the golfers to play around them. Honking at them and chasing them does no good. They are an organized, if somewhat inept, bunch ~ following their leader no matter where he takes them. (I could digress into political analogies, but I won’t this time.) 

I’m thankful for all the birds that sit on the telephone wires. They, too, make me laugh. They sit there for hours, not making a sound. They don’t sing or squawk. They just sit there, quietly observing traffic, meditating and thinking their bird-thoughts as we frantically hurry to our next destination.

I’m thankful for Elf on the Shelf. Last Sunday my grandsons came to decorate my house for Christmas for the 8th year in a row. It is my favorite holiday tradition. The boys (now young men) have Christmas decorating down to a science. The whole house is done in about 20 minutes. At this rate, they could hire themselves out. It’s a lot easier than shoveling snow. 

This year, during the decorating bonanza, I asked if Elf on the Shelf was going to appear again. Max told me “No, that guy is creepy!” I don’t agree. I find Elf to be a charming spy. I like the way he changes clothes and shows up in different places around the house. I remember one year when Max was younger, he worried because Elf on the Shelf sat on their kitchen counter all year. Max figured he could be a good boy from Thanksgiving until Christmas, but expecting him to behave for an entire year was too much. No wonder he considers Elf a little creepy. 

And speaking of shoveling show, I am thankful for the day laborers, all of them from Mexico, who shovel snow throughout my HOA community. Last week, after a huge snowstorm, the men shoveled all day ~ from early morning until well past sunset. They laughed and talked to each other in Spanish until all the steps and sidewalks were cleared. They were unstoppable. I am grateful for them. They, too, make me smile. 

Banda de Guerra

November 20th, Mexican Revolution Day, celebrates the beginning of the ten-year war to bring democracy to Mexico. School children dress like revolutionary heroes and bandas de guerras (bands of war) keep time as students parade through the city in long, jubilant lines.

Colegio Sinaloense, the middle school around the corner from my house, marched in the parade every year. The school band practiced in the park behind my house from early September until mid-November, getting ready for the big event.

Band members, about fifteen students in all, played either drums or bugles. None of them, as far as I could tell, had any previous experience on their instrument. What they lacked in talent and technique, they more than made up for in enthusiasm and volume. The noise was deafening.

Practice began every day at 5:00 with drummers beating out a rough cadence as they walked across the street toward my house. At 5:30 the buglers arrived and spent the next hour warming up. They were elephants on a rampage. They competed with each other to see who could play the loudest and highest notes. They played the same four measures over and over, but not in unison. Every once in a while they hit the right note.

At 7:00 the band master showed up. By that time, the buglers had no chops left and the drummers were exhausted, as well. Only the girls remained standing. The boys played sitting on the curb. They practiced like that for the next hour. The director tried to make them all play the same notes at the same time but since it was dark outside no one could see him. 

The students were proud as they marched in the Revolution Day parade. I loved the parade, too, but I was mostly happy that band practice was over for another year. Viva la Revolución!

Mamacita is Back

This week’s blog post is by Ernesto

My mother arrived back on our doorstep last weekend. For the past six months she’s lived with my sister, Norma, in San Ignacio Cerro Gordo, where winters are cold in the hills outside of Guadalajara. It was time for Mamí to come back to Mazatlán to spend time in the sunshine with me and my brothers.

My mother is 92 years old. That’s a long life for a Mexican woman but my mother has always been a person in charge of her own destiny. She was born in La Hacienda del Tamarindo, the only girl in a family with five brothers. She was a warrior woman  ~ tiny, weighing less than 100 pounds, with fierce black eyes and a head full of wild curly hair. Her voice, low and growly like a pissed-off dog, commands attention.

One time, I took Mamí on a seven-hour bus ride to Guadalajara. It was a terrible trip. The bus was cold, the toilet wouldn’t flush and the smell was horrible. People complained but the driver said there was nothing he could do about it, so he just kept driving. My mother got the idea that the woman in the seat in front of her was the person who stopped up the toilet. Of course Mamí didn’t have any proof but she didn’t care. She harassed the poor woman all the way to Guadalajara. 

“You know you are the one who did it. We all know it. You gave us a terrible smelly ride and it’s all your fault.” 

Mamí wouldn’t stop until the end of the ride, when I walked up from where I was sitting two rows back, took her by the arm, and quietly led her off the bus.

Another time, not long ago, I looked out the window and saw Padre Lalo walking my mother home. The priest liked to stop at our house after Mass for coffee and sweet bread but I could see by the look on his face, this wasn’t a social call. I went outside to meet him.

“Neto, I’m afraid you need to keep your mother home from now on.”

“Why, Padre Lalo? You know she loves going to Mass.”

“I know, Neto. I’m happy to bring communion to Zelmira here at home but she causes too much trouble when she comes to church.

“What does she do?”

“She watches people going to communion and judges them. Today she stood up in her pew, pointed at Rosita Morales, who was getting ready to take communion, wagged her finger and shouted,  ‘You shouldn’t be taking communion, you (bad word). We all know where you were last night and who you were with.’ 

“Rosita left Mass in tears. Neto, your mother is a good woman. But so is Rosita. I can’t have scenes like this in my church. You have to keep her home.”

Now that Mamí is back with us, I notice a big change. She’s still stubborn but she doesn’t talk much and she doesn’t cause trouble. Because she’s lost most of her teeth, we bring her cereal and soup to eat. She’s quiet and mellow, content to sit in her chair and sleep a lot. I know this makes her easier to deal with, but I miss the feisty mother that I used to know.


How I Met Ernesto

I’m often asked how I met Ernesto. The short answer is that he picked me up on the beach.

Here is the longer version:

It was April, 2005. I had just bought a house in Mazatlán. A really big house with five bedrooms and six bathrooms. A house full of cockroaches. A house that needed a lot of work. 

I was staying  at La Siesta, a cheap hotel across from Olas Altas beach. I didn’t bring enough money with me and I was quickly running out of cash. I didn’t know how to speak Spanish or how to use a foreign ATM. I was sitting on my bed in my desolate, miserable hotel room when it hit me ~ What was I doing here? In a strange city, in a foreign country, with no one to turn to for help? 

Neto found me sitting on a bench by the ocean, eating a Snickers bar and watching the waves wash in. He was good-looking and charming. He spoke perfect English.

“Hi, What are you doing here?”

“I just bought a house.”

“That’s nice.”

“No it isn’t. It’s a big mistake.”

“Why?”

“Because it needs too much work and I don’t know where to start.”

“Don’t worry. I can help you do whatever you need. Where is your house?”

“Right around the corner. Do you want to see it?”

We walked together down the street to my empty house on Aleman Avenue. I told him I wanted to start by putting a fountain in the courtyard.

“Can you build me a fountain?” I asked as we opened the front door.

“Sure. Don’t worry. I can build any kind of fountain you want. Just show me where you want it.”

Neto came every day to work on the fountain. Soon I realized that he had never built a fountain before and he had no idea what he was doing. He spent days digging holes in the ground and then covering them up again. Then I had an idea. 

“Neto,” I said, “This job is too big for just one person. From now on, I want you to be the foreman. You need to find some helpers ~ an electrician, a plumber, a tile guy, and someone to help you dig the foundation.”

The next day, Neto showed up with his friends, Publio and Pepé, and Señor Blanca, a plumber who arrived with all his tools on the back of his bicycle. They made tremendous progress in just one day. At the end of the day, I walked them to the door to thank them and say goodby. 

“Adiós. Graciás,” I said, as I formally shook their hands. 

“No,” said Neto. “When we leave, you need to say, “Adiós, Guapos. (Goodby, handsome men.) Hasta mañana.”

Honoring Jesús Flores García

Today’s Día de Muertos essay is written by Ernesto.

We don’t put up Dia de Los Muertos altars in my house. If we did, my father’s altar would include a couple bottles of Pacifico, a pack of filtered cigarettes, a plate of boiled shrimp, a rosary and a picture of Our Lady of Guadalupe.

Every morning my father knelt before La Virgin to say a prayer before going to his job as a blacksmith in downtown Mazatlán. When his day was finished, he sang his way up the street holding his friend, the tequila bottle, in his hand. He walked through the door and knelt again before the Virgin’s picture to say graciás for bringing him home.

My dear, kind, generous, honorable father died of a sudden heart attack in 1993. I was lost for a long time after he died. Papí was my protector. My guardian angel. He held me up and never let me down. I’m glad he didn’t see how much trouble I got into after he died but I know he would be proud of the man I am now. My father was my North Star, guiding my way with his constant good humor and basic decency. When I look to the heavens, he is still there telling me, “Ernesto, you are a good boy. Make sure that everyone knows that about you.”

Who is your North Star?



Dia de Los Muertos

November 2nd, Dia de Los Muertos, Day of the Dead, is a major national holiday in Mexico. It incorporates Aztec traditions and coincides with All Souls Day in the Catholic religion. Unlike people in the United States who avoid talking about death, Mexicans often joke about dying to demonstrate that they are not afraid. They are determined not to let death stand in the way of their joy of living. 

In the days leading up to November 2, bakeries (panaderias) prepare bread in the shape of skulls. In Mazatlán, people put together elaborate skeleton costumes and participate in a raucous nighttime parade throughout downtown. In small towns, families decorate their homes with altars covered in marigolds, photographs, and articles that remind them of family members who have died. It is a day to remember and celebrate loved ones, to share joy and tears, laughter, stories and plenty of cerveza and tequilla.

In recognition of Dia de Los Muertos, I share this tribute to my father, Robert Jones, who died in 1996. 

My earliest memory of my father happened when I was about four years old. My family lived upstairs, above my grandparents, in a small home across from the local Catholic church. I sat on the floor, watching my father sleep on the sofa next to me. My brother and I were eating an orange and we methodically put the orange seeds in my father’s ear. By the time he woke up, my father’s ear was over-flowing with discarded orange seeds. That event is significant for two reasons. It established that my father could sleep through anything and that he allowed us children tremendous leeway. Adults in my family have always claimed that the ability to sleep anywhere is the sign of a clear conscience. In my father’s case, that was certainly true.

I miss my father tremendously. He taught me to fully appreciate comic books, holidays, gardening, Alfred E. Newman, horse-racing and music. He was the only father I knew who could click his heels and wiggle his ears. Who would play Sousa marches on his trumpet on the Fourth of July and Taps at night. The last piece of music I heard him play was Somewhere Over the Rainbow. I never heard him play so well, or so sweetly. He died four months later. He was the most honorable, kind, gentle man I’ve ever know.

Adios, Papí. 

 

What’s In A Name?

Nicknames in Mexico are common. Almost everyone has one. Some names you recognize ~ Poncho (Francisco), Checo (Sergio), and Chucho (Jesús). Other, more creative names, you might hear on the street.

People who know Ernesto, call him Neto. But people who grew up with him in Mazatlán call him Chanfles ~ which refers to the wicked, left-footed kick that was his trademark in soccer games when he was a boy. Neto was able to kick the ball hard, with so much spin to it, his opponents were helpless. His team scored and he won the game.

There are other nicknames found in many families that refer to physical features. Güero is the name typically given to the lightest child in a family and Prieto is often the name given to the darkest one. A guy who is losing his hair is known as Pelón, a girl who is tiny and petite is known as Ratona (Mouse) and a boy with big ears is called ~ you guessed it ~ Orejas.

A Citizen of the World is full of nicknames for Neto’s friends. Bombon (Marshmallow), Huesos (Bones), Tetas (a guy so fat he has “man-boobs”) and Sombra (Shadow) are a few of the people you will meet. While these names might be considered inappropriate in other cultures, they are meant to be fun. Someone thinks of a name, it sticks, and no one seems to take offense. It’s just the way it is.