Osprey

First, an update on the Conoravirus  situation in Mexico. Ernesto tells me that the virus outbreak is about two weeks behind the U.S.  Cases are  beginning to be reported as more and more people are tested. People are trying to keep their distance from each other, but it’s difficult. It’s not their nature to be alone.

Concerts, meetings and events have been cancelled. Hospitals are desperate for beds, medical equipment, testing kits, masks and gloves. The country, as whole, is not prepared for what is coming next. Neto, who is caring for his 92 year old mother, is asking people not to visit. His only exercise is walking to the beach to look at the ocean and watch the waves, and then going back home.

Meanwhile, the president of Mexico denies that there is a crisis. He has a reputation as a “people’s president” and continues to hug people and kiss babies on his frequent stops around the country. The governors, however, are more realistic. They have closed borders and beaches. American and Canadian airlines have stopped flights to Mexico and a few tourists are scrambling to get home.

It’s a tough time. That’s why I want to switch things up a bit. To give you a diversion from the everyday grim news. To give you a reason to smile and feel hopeful. 

I’m happy to report that the Boulder osprey pair are back on their nest, high in the sky. You should see them! They are wonderful, majestic birds. I’ve watched this couple for the past four years. Now I watch them every day. You can watch, too, at www.bouldercounty.org/open space/management/osprey-camera

I love the osprey, especially these two. They’ve been together since at least 2012. They meet back here every year, flying in from different migratory areas. We don’t know where they’ve been or what they’ve been up to. I like to think they go to Mexico ~ maybe one is in Mazatlán, and the other is in Cabo. Or maybe they stay in the U.S. ~ one of them in Alabama and the other in New Orleans. I believe they smile when they see each other again.

Every year suspense builds as we don’t know when, or even if, they will return. This week both osprey returned within 24 hours of each other and we all breathed a sigh of relief.

Next there will be mating. And more mating. And more mating. If your children are ready for the birds-and bees talk, this is a perfect opportunity. After weeks of getting reacquainted (Ahem!) at last the eggs are laid. That, too, is must-see-TV. Sometimes the mother lays as many as four eggs, or as few as two, over three or four days. 

And then, the long wait until the eggs hatch. The mother sits on the nest for a long time (about thirty-eight days) in all kinds of Colorado weather ~ often rain, snow and violent winds. Meanwhile, the father brings fish to keep her warm and satisfied. Occasionally he gives her a break. He sits on the eggs while she flies over Boulder Creek, stretching her wings and looking for trash to bring back to decorate the nest.

The season follows with lots of real-life drama. The chicks hatch. The parents feed live fish into their tiny mouth until they learn to feed themselves. They grow bigger every day and then they fly. Fly! For the first time! That moment takes my breath away every year. Finally, at the end of the summer, they fly away for the last time, to parts unknown. I whisper, “God-speed, little birds. I wish you a long life with abundant fish and clean, clear waters.”

During, this hard time, remember the birds and the other animals that make our world a beautiful place. Hopefully, we will be stronger when this is over, more caring for each other and for our planet. Let’s practice kindness and compassion. Like the osprey, let’s make our homes a refuge, a place to re-connect. A place that makes us smile.

Primavera

¡Primavera! The first day of spring. Of course the holiday is celebrated with a parade. Everything in Mazatlán is celebrated with a parade. And because my home was on a busy main street, every parade went right past my front door.

Some of the parades, I must admit, began to have a sameness about them. Gorgeous girls with long dark hair and beautiful black eyes wearing tight sequined dresses and sparkling tiaras. Military bands and dancing horses. Music booming from speakers the size of my kitchen stove.

But the Primavera parade is something special. Held on the first day of spring, it is a day for preschoolers and kindergartners to dress like flowers, butterflies and baby animals. Mothers walk alongside their children or push them in fancy strollers along the parade route. Teachers walk with their entire classroom of preschool children, all of them holding hands. Often, to my horror, tiny boys and girls were perched on the hoods and even the roofs of cars and trucks decorated with balloons in every possible spring color combination.

The parade would never be allowed in the United States. It is certainly too dangerous to allow babies to ride on top of moving vehicles. And yet, the smiles on the faces of the children and their proud parents made this my favorite parade of the year.

Crime in México

I’m often asked if I feel safe living in México. My answer is an emphatic YES! In fact, there are many reasons to feel safe, starting with the fact that the crime rate Aurora is much higher than in Mazatlán.

I take precautions in México. I don’t wear sparkly jewelry. Other than a pair of cheap silver earrings, I don’t wear jewelry at all. I always travel with Neto and we only go to places that he knows are safe. 

Neto has certainly seen more crime in his lifetime than I have in mine. When he was eight years old, he saw a judge executed in the street by gang members. He was mugged by three men in broad daylight one morning, coming off a bus to go to work for me. Most recently, he had his bicycle stolen when he went inside a convenience store to buy Coca Cola.

I believe that most crimes in México are crimes of opportunity. If you provide the opportunity, eventually someone will commit the crime.

That occurred often when I lived in México. The crime was dog-napping and it happened with alarming frequency.

There is a big difference between the way Méxican people view animals and the attention the ex-pats lavish on their pets. I would venture to say, Méxican people are generally more fond of the iguanas in their courtyard than they are of the guard dogs on their roofs. They don’t walk either one and iguanas make less mess. 

Méxican people are often amused by the love and devotion that Americans show to their pets ~ especially their love of small white, fluffy dogs. Therein lies the opportunity for crime. 

Little white, fluffy dogs are accustomed to being walked outside. They wiggle their cute little butts with happiness at all the wonderful smells out on the street. They learn to smile and make friends wherever they go. They welcome being petted by strangers. Occasionally, when doors are not secure, they escape and go for walks down the street without their owners. This is not a safe situation. In fact, in a city in which the average worker earns 200 pesos/day (about $12.00 U.S.) doing hard labor, it is an opportunity for a crime.

Fluffy is easily scooped up by men, women and/or children who want to earn extra money. The upset owners are willing to do anything to get their dog back. They put up reward posters featuring a cute picture of Fluffy, with her shiny white hair and beguiling black eyes. Often the reward is $200.00 (U.S.) It lists the local telephone number for Fluffy’s owner, who now spends every moment waiting for a call.

The call comes soon enough. Of course the caller isn’t a dog-napper. It’s someone who “found” Fluffy walking down the street and took her home to insure her safety. Fluffy’s owner is over-joyed. The reunion is full of happy tears. The Prodigal Pet has returned! The reward is paid. Often hugs are exchanged. Everyone is happy.

Adios, México!

The countdown has begun. From the number of weeks, to the number of days, and soon to the number of hours before I leave México for my home in Aurora, CO.

Ernesto and I have a ritual in the final days before saying goodbye. We list our best memories of our time together. We had a lot of fun in the past eight weeks. Here are my five best moments, in order.

1. Drinking coffee and chai on the balcony every morning with the sun on my face. 

I was cold for two months before coming to Mazatlán. So cold, I thought I would never get warm. And then I landed in México. Every morning, as I sat on the patio of our beautiful apartment wearing only shorts and a tee-shirt, I was grateful to be where the sun is warm, the sky is blue, and birds sit on the telephone wires, singing Buenos Dias to anyone lucky enough to live here even for a short time.

2. Discovering a new favorite restaurant.

We had a few disappointing meals in highly-rated restaurants before we stumbled upon La Parilla Express, a lovely restaurant in a remodeled old home on a side street near our apartment. We got lost the first time we tried to find it. We walked about a mile out of our way in the dark, stopping to ask for directions from people who had no idea where it was but were happy to give us directions anyway. I’m glad we didn’t give up. The meal was so extraordinary, we went back for Valentine’s Day and returned again this week to say goodbye. 

3. Laughing every time I discovered a new monigote on display for Carnival.

Neto and I skipped most of the Carnival events this year. A combination of poor planning and lack of interest on our parts. But I never got tired of looking at the monigotes, the twenty-five foot tall statues along the main street in front of the ocean. This year there are 16 statues representing the Spanish speaking countries of Central and South America.They are a quirky reminder of the fun-loving spirit of the Mexican people.

4. Seeing a couple get engaged on the beach.

People get engaged all the time on Mexican beaches but this ceremony was truly over the top. We happened to be eating dinner in a nearby restaurant when we noticed huge letters, spelling out “Marry Me”  lighting up the sky in front of us. As the Mexican couple, dressed all in white, approached the beach, someone presented the young woman with a bouquet of five dozen long-stemmed red roses. Under spotlights, in full view of family and friends, the young man got down on one knee and asked his girlfriend to marry him. Of course, she said yes. Then a long kiss as they were surrounded by ten Mariachis in formal dress, playing quiet songs for dancing. AND THEN FIREWORKS!. A full ten minutes of fireworks on the beach.

Neither of these two young lovers were glamorous, or even gorgeous in the way I’ve come to expect Mexican faces to be. No, they were in their mid-thirties, a little plain, a little pudgy, but obviously in love. 

5. Meeting our dear friends, Eunice and Gordon, for dinner.

Eunice and Gordon, from Saskatchewan, stayed with me many times when I lived in Mazatlán. Often they were the only thing that kept me sane. Eunice loves Mexico more than anyone I know. She missed being here last year because she was sick. Terribly sick. So sick, I was afraid I would never see her again.

Seeing Eunice and Gordon walk toward me, as I sat waiting in the Papas Locas restaurant, brought tears to my eyes. It was the highlight of this trip for me. Adios, my dear friends. Vaya con Dios! Until we meet again.

¡Viva México!