Cooper

Cooper was Neto’s mother’s dog. He came from a long line of stray dogs she adopted, all of them named Gary Cooper. Although Zelmira liked her dogs, she loved the real Gary Cooper the best.

The Cooper before this one shared the same Golden Retriever face and body. The previous Cooper, a guard dog who lived on top of the roof, was awarded special treats not shared by most rooftop dogs ~ a tent for shelter from the sun and the rain, and bowls of water and food refilled every day. But for the previous Cooper, that was not enough. One night, he jumped off the roof, ran down the street at full gallup and was never seen again.

When the new Cooper showed up, Zelmira welcomed him in. She told him he didn’t need to live on the roof. She let him stay on the patio and occasionally come in the house. One day, however, Neto arrived at our house leading Cooper on a rope.

“Where did this dog come from?” I asked.

“He’s my mother’s dog but she got in a fight with him. I rescued him just in time.”

“What do you mean they got in a fight?”

“Well you know how my mother can’t stand things to be out of order and this dog made a mess of things. He took one of her shoes and ripped it with his teeth.”

“And then?”

“My mother started yelling at him and hitting him with the broom. I decided to give them both a break and bring him here.”

Neto always wanted a dog he could go surfing with. He’d seen dogs on surfboards in the ocean, smiling and looking like they enjoyed the ride. He’d seen dogs playing in the water, chasing waves and running back and forth to the shore. That afternoon he took Cooper to the beach. But the dog was not an ocean dog. He cowered and shook. He whimpered and cried. He simply didn’t want to go near the water. 

Not to be deterred, the next day Neto took Cooper in a small boat across the bay to Stone Island, a surfing village filled with hammocks and small restaurants. Neto figured that Cooper wouldn’t jump out of the boat into the water. Maybe a change of scenery was what the dog needed to learn to love the waves as much as he did.

Neto tied Cooper to a tree while he went surfing. He watched from a distance and Cooper seemed calm. Maybe even happy.

When it was time to go home, Neto came ashore, picked up his surfboard and untied Cooper’s leash. The dog took off! Neto is fast but Cooper was faster. He ran down the path into the jungle of palm trees. There was no stopping him. Neto was furious and then dejected. He had lost his mother’s dog. More importantly, he lost his chance of ever having a surfing dog.

But there is a happy ending to this story. Three month’s later to the very day, Neto was back at Stone Island with three of our guests ~ two boys from Finland and a girl from Australia. They were sitting at Rudy’s Restaurant, eating ceviche and drinking beer, when Rudy asked, “Where have you been? Your dog comes here almost every night, looking for you.”

“Are you sure he’s my dog?”

“Yah, I’m sure.”

“Do you feed him? Maybe he’s just some dog looking for food.”

“Neto ~ I know he is your dog. There he is now.”

As if hearing his name, Cooper came limping up the beach. He was skinny and beat up from being in a lot of fights but there was no doubt he was Gary Cooper.

The Finland boys helped carry Cooper to the ferry and take him home. We cleaned him up and gave him food and water. We stroked his back and told him we were happy he was home.

Cooper went back to live with Zelmira, no longer a frisky puppy. Instead, he was a tame old dog. He didn’t try to eat her sandals and she wouldn’t have hit him if he did. Zelmira loved Cooper and I think he loved her. They stayed together for a year before she decided to let him go to a cousin’s ranch, to live out his life chasing rabbits and avoiding waves . 

Christina

Soon after I moved to Mexico in 2005, Christina knocked on my door and asked if she could be my housekeeper. That was a lucky day for me. Christina was the hardest-working woman I’ve ever met.

My house, a huge five-bedroom, six-bathroom historic hacienda, took up half a block. The large kitchen was designed for servants to prepare meals for the famous family who lived next door. A small woman with onyx black eyes, Christina wouldn’t go home until she cleaned every inch of my house, top to bottom, wall to wall, including the courtyard. 

Christina worked only on Tuesdays and Fridays. Neto was my handyman and worked every day. They got along like a cat and a dog.

“Buenos Dias,” Neto would sing to Christina as he came through the door in the morning. Christina wouldn’t answer. She glared at him. If she’d been a real cat, she would have hissed and swatted. Instead, she turned her back and kept sweeping the courtyard. 

And then, because Christina spoke only Spanish and my Spanish was even worse than it is now, I asked Neto to translate for me.

“Christina, I need you to be nice to Ernesto. You are very important to me. I couldn’t take care of this house without you. In fact, I would be lost without you. Please answer Ernesto when he talks to you.”

“Buenos Dias,” she would mumble and then go back to sweeping the massive amount of leaves that had fallen from the mango trees overnight.

My favorite time of day in Mexico has always been early morning. The weather is cool and the sun is low in the sky. Birds swoop and sing as the day is just getting started. Christina liked that time of the day, too. Our fountain bubbled with fresh, cold water inviting birds to come, to drink and to splash.

Evenings were meant for the mourning doves, with their beautiful Coo-oo-oo song. Such sweet, gentle birds! They perched on the rim of the fountain before bravely stepping into the water to shower. 

But Christina’s favorite birds were the shiny black cuervos, the crows who arrived like loud drunken guests early in the morning. She talked to them while she swept the courtyard. She swore that they talked back to her.

I asked her, “Christina, why do you talk to the cuervos and you won’t talk to Ernesto?”

“Because I like the cuervos better, “ she answered. “And besides, they are better looking  than he is.”

One day, I heard Christina having a loud, long conversation with one especially bold crow, sitting high in a tree.

“What is she saying?” I asked Neto.

“She’s asking the crow why he never brings her anything. She is telling the crow that if he wants to shower and drink from the fountain, he needs to bring her a present.”

“Does she believe he understands her?”

“I think she does.” Neto and I shook our heads. “She believes the cuervos are as smart as people.”

The next time Christina came to work, she started her day sweeping the courtyard and talking to the crows, as usual. I looked up as I heard her cry, “Ay! Carumba!” I walked over and saw her rubbing her head. Christina opened her hand to show me a ten peso coin that the crow had dropped on top of her. I never again doubted her ability to talk to birds.

I recently learned that my dear friend, Christina, died three weeks ago of kidney failure. Vaya con Dios, mi amiga. Go in peace. May all the birds in the sky watch over you and sing you home.

Carnival 2020

There is a saying in Mazatlán, Time is measured by Carnival.“ In this city of endless fiestas, Carnival is the biggest party of the year. This year’s theme is Somos América: Pasión, Alegria y Esperanza. We are America ~ Passion, Joy and Hope. The mangotes, giant statues representing the theme, are always impressive. This year they are spectacular.

Carnival starts next Thursday and ends on Tuesday, February 25. The following day, Ash Wednesday, marks the beginning of Lent. One of the largest Mardi Gras celebrations in the world, the Mazatlán Carnival, is everyone’s party.

My first Carnival was in 2006, not quite a year after I moved to Mazatlán. The main entrance to the party was half a block from my front door. A lot of Americans and Canadians chose to leave town. I stayed and loved it.

Music from multiple stages ~ a lot trumpets, drums, accordions and tubas ~ blasted non-stop along the beach for six straight days and nights. The parade, a spectacle of lights and girls in skimpy costumes, rode right past my house. Beautiful dancing horses, kings and queens, clowns and floats! I’d never seen anything like it. I couldn’t take pictures fast enough.

Neto warned me not to go alone along Olas Altas beach, the area most known for non-stop music, unruly drunken behavior, and extravagant fireworks. He tried to convince me, “There are lots of activities for tourists and families along the side streets ~ food and souvenir vendors ~ that you will like.”  But I wanted to go inside.

“Then let me take you to the fireworks on Saturday night. My daughter wants to go. We’ll stop by and get you. Don’t bring a purse.”

Neto showed up at my house at 7:30 with his ten-year-old daughter, Vannya, and her mother, Loca. I was surprise to see Loca. I was even more surprised to see her wearing a surgical mask over her face.  “To protect her from germs,” Neto explained. “It’s her birthday and I had to bring her. It’s the only way she’d let me bring Vannya.”

We found a restaurant with an empty table and three chairs in front of the ocean, something that still amazes me today. People usually reserve spaces months in advance. We grabbed the chairs, ordered french fries and drinks, and waited for the fireworks to begin. With a blast of color and gunpowder, fireworks lit up the sky just as Vannya put her head on the table, closed her eyes, and fell asleep. 

The Combate Naval, the most poplar of all Carnival events, is an over-the-top fireworks display that recalls a naval battle of 1864, when the French Navy attempted to seize the Mazatlán harbor and were met by cannon fire. More than 500,000 people come to watch the re-enactment every year.

Fireworks continued for nearly an hour. Beer and tequila flowed freely. The crowd became more boisterous with every blast. Vannya never woke up. When it was time to leave, the crowded surged toward the entrance. We were swept along in a mad rush of bodies. Neto picked up Vannya, put her over his shoulder and told Loca and me to follow him through the crowd. Loca grabbed him by his belt and I was left behind in a crush of bodies, almost all of them taller than me. 

I grabbed the shirt of a burly Mexican man in front of me. He turned around to see who was hugging his back, “Don’t worry,” he said. “Just hang on. I’ll get you out of here.” I peeled myself away from the crowd as we approached my front door. Neto was waiting for me there, Vannya still asleep on his shoulder. “Thank goodness you are ok,” he said. “I almost lost you.”

I went inside and continued to listen to beautiful mariachi music from a party next door. Neto hailed a pulmonia (golf carts that operate as taxis throughout the city) and took Vannya and Loca home before he returned to meet his friends at the beach.

Publio Donates Blood

It’s been a quiet week in Mazatlán. So while we wait for the next holiday which is, predictably, right around the corner, I’m going to tell you a story about one of Ernesto’s friends

Publio is Neto’s friend and his best surfing buddy. Fifteen years younger than Neto, Publio is from a very musical family and plays a variety of instruments. He is currently a drummer in a band with his older brother, a flute player, when he isn’t at his job delivering furniture.

Publio’s mother, a hard-working woman from Mexico, recently retired as a gardener at the Holiday Inn. His father, from Ecuador, used to work for Cirque de Soleil in Las Vegas. He was the strong man at the bottom of  the human pyramid until he fell and broke his back, never able to work again.

Publio grew up in Mazatlán and did well in school. Due to generous support from his father, he graduated from high school and followed his brother to Mexico City to attend the university. Publio and Neto returned to Mazatlán about the same year. Neto was evicted from the U.S. by a Tucson judge who believed it was time for Neto to go back to surfing. Publio dropped out of college, left Mexico City to join a Reggae band, and eventually found his way back in Mazatlán. They met one day at the corner grocery store. Neto loved the music of Bob Marley and was fascinated by this young guy from the neighborhood with long deadlocks, a quick smile and a quiet voice.

Publio’s mother never forgave Neto for encouraging Publio’s interest in surfing and, in her mind, leading him astray. Alicia wouldn’t allow Neto into her house, so Publio spent a lot of time at our place. He was Neto’s right-hand man whenever a job needed a right-hand man. Lots of time he stayed for lunch. I’ve always liked Publio. He’s a quiet, gentle giant ~ a nice contrast to Neto’s sometimes exhausting exuberance and impulsivity. 

One day Publio came to our house to let us know that he needed to donate blood for his diabetic uncle, a local Mariachi musician. Why a seemingly healthy man with diabetes needed fresh blood was one of a long list of Mexican customs I never understood and learned not to question. Before he could donate blood, however, Publio had to have his blood tested to make sure it was “strong enough.” At the time, Publio was only thirty years old, practically a virgin, and one of the strongest men in Mexico. His blood, however, was found to be too weak to donate.

Not to be deterred, Publio drank a concoction that the blood center mixed up. Since Neto was with him and thought that maybe his blood needed a pick-me-up, he asked if he could have one, too. It took them about thirty minutes to swallow their highballs of celery, garlic, tomatoes, vinegar, olive oil and liver powder. Publio gagged every time he took another sip. Neto just asked for a little Tabasco to make it taste better.

The next day Publio donated blood but then felt too shaky to come to work. Neto felt fine but he didn’t come to work either, out of sympathy for his friend who didn’t feel well.

Q and A: Week 3

This week I’m going to answer some of the questions I’ve received since I first posted from Mexico two weeks ago.

Q: What is your favorite part of being in Mexico?

A: Do you really want to know? The beautiful weather! We sit on the patio in the morning, drinking something hot (coffee for him. chai for me) and eating sweet bread. At 7:00 in the morning, I’m in my t-shirt and shorts. Can you imagine? At night, we go for a walk to the OXXO (think 7-11) for fresh tortillas or pastry for the next day. I’m going to miss this when it’s time to come back to Colorado.

Q: Is there anything that is frustrating or difficult?

A: Yes! This is not the all-inclusive life that most Americans experience. The nitty-gritty of daily life in Mexico is eye-opening and can be tremendously frustrating. For example, Neto spent an entire day getting car insurance because the computers were down at the insurance agency and didn’t resume operation for hours.

It took Neto most of last week to get his driver’s license renewed because he didn’t want to  bribe someone to speed up the process.. It is all part of being poor and dealing with a government bureaucracy that can be both cruel and stupid, in equal measures. 

Every day Neto returned to the DMV and was told he needed to produce more proof of his address ~ the house he’s lived in for more than 50 years. Having the address listed on his nearly acquired car insurance wasn’t enough. Finally, after four days of standing in line and meeting with different unhelpful clerks, he returned to the office with his old driver’s license and social security card, his brother’s birth certificate and driver’s license, and a copy of the electrical bill. Success! The photographer took his picture and he went on his way.

Q: How is the car?

A: The car needs work but is running well. We have questions about the previous owners, however. From the car’s documents, we know it was stolen in Mazatlán and recovered in Cabo San Lucas. The car used to be bright red before it was painted its current iridescent green. It has six gears plus reverse. The automatic windows are tinted dark black but they no longer work. It’s a car made for fast get-aways and who knows what else. We’re lucky to have found a mechanic who can get the windows working again.

Q: What happened to the cow?

A: As far as we know Prieta is alive and well. Neto’s uncle, Ramon Rodriguez, is the unofficial veterinarian of Hacienda del Tamarindo. He runs an animal rescue out of his tiny home and saves injured animals he finds in the forest. When he heard that Neto hit the neighbor’s cow, he went to the farmer’s house and offered to help. Tio Ramon fashioned a cast out of plaster so the cow could continue to wander and eat grass by the side of the road. When it was time for the cast to come off, Ramon made a brace to using sticks and a piece of leather to support the cow’s leg until it was completely healed.  Ramon is a living legend. A true animal whisperer.